20 Years and 11 Trips Till My First Bear....

I’ve been going to Big Bend National Park for 20 years now. This was my 11 trip. It was only for 2 days, but since I know the park so well, I picked the most scenic areas to photograph (which is anywhere in the park). I started out driving West to Study Butte. After a quick lunch at the local gas station/cafe, I headed back East into the park. On the way I spotted several bovines in an open area. There was no grass, no vegetation, and no shade. It was as if the cattle were all crying (see the tear lines from their eyes). I thought, “wow, that would suck to be cattle here”. As I kept driving I spotted an old Airstream RV and relic Plymouth., so I had to photograph that. As I approached the plethora of photographic subjects, I watched a Roadrunner with a catch in his mouth jump up to one of the openings in the RV. I quickly ran around to the other side to get the shot (see image). I then proceeded to the current high school. Their athletic fields were all gravel with an all-weather track around it. The views of the Chisos mountains off in the distance were breath-taking. I made my way through the desert and photographed what interested me. I ended up at Rio Grande Village, at the East part of the park. There I did a short hike up to the Hot Springs Canyon Overlook. It was eerie because I was the only one there. I had the entire canyon to myself. It was beautiful. From the Westward view, you could see the sun setting, reflecting off the Rio Grande river, while the canyon walls provided a muted reddish hue to complement the warm colors coming from the sun setting. When I turned around, facing West, the Sierra del Carmen mountain range lit up and began to glow with warm hues that projected forward from the cool purples and blues in the sky above it. That ended day 1. Day two started out driving the almost 50 miles to Santa Elena Canyon in the dark. Boy that did not disappoint. I got there long before the sunrise. The purples and pinks in the sky reflected almost magical pastels off the water in the Rio Grande river. I turned to watch the sun rise over the Chisos in the Northeast, only to be pleasantly surprised when I turned back around to see the golden light explode on the canyon walls. There was just enough water to get a classic reflection of the canyon. It’s one of my favorite images from the trip. I then made my way back to base camp. Driving up into the mountains for the 63rd time (guessing), I witnessed my first bear. 11 am in the morning my eyes were met by a small bear, probably less than 1 1/2 years old. This was my first bear. It took 20 years and 11 trips, but finally, I was blessed with seeing the one animal I’ve always wanted to see there. I didn’t get to take any images, but this made my trip so rewarding. Some times it’s the things we can’t photograph but witness with our eyes that impact us the most. I could’ve gone home then, but I had more to photograph. After lunch, I made my way back to Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. On the way, I stopped and filled up at the tiny gas station. I met a couple from New York and Philidelphia. Actually, they were Polish and Brazilian. We chatted, and they told me about a waterfall that had flowing water. In the desert that’s a small miracle in itself. We shared stories, and I headed out. I photographed so many places along the road. But as the sun went down, the magic started to happen. The colors in the sky mixed with the darker hues of the sandwiched mountain ranges led to beautiful images. Towards the end, I wanted to get an image of the Window, with Casa Grande in the middle view. By the time I got there it was dark. So I set a 25 second exposure at ISO 1600. I thought, “this will be a documentary style image”., for it would be to grainy for my taste. My camera wouldn’t focus, so I got my flashlight out to help with the focus. As I shined it in the distance, a thought came to me, “why don’t I paint the desert foreground with my flashlight”? So I did. It turned out so cool, and you wouldn’t even know it was light by a flashlight. The moon looks like the sun in the image. You can actually see a satellite streak in the sky to the left of the moon. As I was driving back, I had the privilege of watching my second bear. This one was so much bigger than the first one. I turned the car around and got to photograph him. I grabbed my camera, turned the ISO to 6400, and fired away. I didn’t check my settings in the excitement, so the shutter speed was slow. The image of the bear isn’t the greatest, but proof that it happened. As the bear headed back towards the trail, I spotted two headlamps on the trail. I drove over and warned the hhikers that if they kept hiking, they would run right into the bear. So they cut through the brush down to my car, and followed me back to the parking lot. What a day! Two bears in one day. Wow!!!! The next day I was to leave, but it didn’t stop me from rising early, hiking about a half mile in pitch black darkness to photograph the Hoodoos. I couldn’t find them at first, but persistence paid off. As I stood out in the vastness of the desert, all by myself, I couldn’t help but think of how blessed I was to be there, and the silence was so peaceful. This trip will be one of my favorites, because of the two bears. It was also the first time I’ve ever been there by myself (which I don’t recommend, ever). Nature has a way of teaching us so much. But the wilder the place, the more necessary it is to have some one else there with you. I didn’t do much hiking at all (like I usually do), all because I was there alone. Trust me on this one. I’ve posted some images from the trip. If you ever get the chance to visit Big Bend National Park, do it. Look me up and I’ll give you some ideas that may help make your trip even more unforgettable.

Bovine #1, 2nd coolest horns in the place.

Bovine #1, 2nd coolest horns in the place.

Felt sorry for this guy, but he did have the coolest horns I’ve ever seen.

Felt sorry for this guy, but he did have the coolest horns I’ve ever seen.

Typical Old-West dilapidated colorful old automobile.

Typical Old-West dilapidated colorful old automobile.

Airstream ruin….

Airstream ruin….

Roadrunner with catch posing for picture.

Roadrunner with catch posing for picture.

Old Plymouth….

Old Plymouth….

This Plymouth has some stories to tell…..

This Plymouth has some stories to tell…..

Can’t get a better view from the driver’s seat…..

Can’t get a better view from the driver’s seat…..

There’s the Window from 20 miles out….

There’s the Window from 20 miles out….

Road to Rio Grande Village….

Road to Rio Grande Village….

Road to Daniel’s Ranch…

Road to Daniel’s Ranch…

Hot Spring Canyon Overlook….

Hot Spring Canyon Overlook….

The Sierra del Carmen Mountain range….

The Sierra del Carmen Mountain range….

Santa Elena Canyon before sunrise….

Santa Elena Canyon before sunrise….

When there’s water, there’s reflections….

When there’s water, there’s reflections….

The Glory of Santa Elena Canyon…

The Glory of Santa Elena Canyon…

Backlit Chisos Mts….

Backlit Chisos Mts….

Chisos Basin Road….

Chisos Basin Road….

Casa Grande from the Campground…..

Casa Grande from the Campground…..

The Century Plant, or better known as the Agave….

The Century Plant, or better known as the Agave….

Luscious Fruits of the Prickly Pear Cactus….

Luscious Fruits of the Prickly Pear Cactus….

Mule Ears Peak, or as I call it, Batman’s head…..

Mule Ears Peak, or as I call it, Batman’s head…..

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive…..

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive…..

sunset sandwich….

sunset sandwich….

Moon rise over the mountains…..

Moon rise over the mountains…..

West view of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, looking toward the Christmas Mountains….

West view of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, looking toward the Christmas Mountains….

Moon rise over the mountains with agave lechuguilla splicing the moon.

Moon rise over the mountains with agave lechuguilla splicing the moon.

Desert view of Moon rise over the Window…..

Desert view of Moon rise over the Window…..

Bear #2, this one got captured by my camera….

Bear #2, this one got captured by my camera….

The Hoodoos up close and personal……

The Hoodoos up close and personal……

The Hoodoos from a distance (longer lens used to compress the view)….

The Hoodoos from a distance (longer lens used to compress the view)….